| Servicing your VW Bay Window bus can see like a bit | | | | level of corrosion. |
| of chore in the excitement of the new spring season | | | | Step 7 |
| all ready upon us. Often there seems too much to do | | | | Roter arm |
| in terms of Volkswagen Camper meets, events and | | | | The roter arm (inside the distributer), should be |
| the inevitable road tips that are planned for the | | | | checked, cleaned or replaced every 5000 miles or |
| summer, to think about getting ones hands dirty, | | | | when you check the condition of your spark plugs. |
| serving your cherished Volkswagon bus. Some or | | | | They are not expensive so I prefer to replace new for |
| even most of us will take our cherished bus to a non | | | | old on every service. |
| Volkswagen garage to have it serviced, get charged | | | | Step 8 |
| through the nose for what's essentially no more than a | | | | Ignition points |
| regular car service. Even Volkswagen appointed | | | | The Ignition points should be checked every time you |
| garages will only undertake a standard vehicle service | | | | undertake the general electrical servicing outline above. |
| and not consider the unique requirements of a 30+ | | | | The points gap should be 0.4mm or 0.016in and should |
| year old air-cooled Volkswagen Bus. | | | | be clean. If they are pitted or corroded in any way |
| It is also too easy to forget that VW Bay Window | | | | they will need replacing. |
| Campers need frequent servicing; in fact some | | | | Step 9 |
| servicing tasks will require your attention at a | | | | Fan Belt |
| frequency of as little as 2000 miles! It is incredible to | | | | Check every time you look in the engine bay! Its easy. |
| think that most modern cars have service intervals of | | | | 10 - 15mm play is fine, anymore and you should adjust. |
| 10000 miles or more. The high operating temperatures | | | | There are some small shims that can removed if the |
| of Air-cooled Volkswagens' for instance require oil | | | | fan belt is to loose. |
| changes every 3000 miles to protect vital engine | | | | Step 10 |
| components from heat and wear related damage. | | | | Air filter |
| Take my word for it! I am no mechanic, so I have | | | | The air filter will need to be cleaned and the oil |
| written this article not as a definitive DIY servicing | | | | replaced every 5000 miles. Drain the old oil, clean and |
| article but more as a simple 20 step guide that you | | | | fill up with new engine oil. Make sure you dispose of |
| can either use yourself or help your local mechanic to | | | | your engine oil properly. Your local council will have an |
| ensure your bus remains on the road for years to | | | | oil disposal unit. |
| come! I have scavenged I lot of the material from the | | | | Step 11 |
| web and rehashed it to suit Class Campers. And I | | | | Fuel lines and hoses |
| have subsequently referenced at the end of this article | | | | Check the condition of your fuel lines every time you |
| all the sites and printed material that I used. | | | | follow this service check list. If they are chapped in |
| Step 1 | | | | anyway replace them. Remember - no smoking! You |
| Changing engine oil | | | | can get very high quality steel lines if you prefer. Whilst |
| Engine oils should be changed at 3000 mile intervals, to | | | | you are doing this you can check the heater pipes for |
| ensure that your engine doesn't suffer from undue | | | | holes or badly fitting joints and repair if necessary. |
| wear and tear. Some folks even suggest that it should | | | | Having wholes or bad joints will reduce your buses |
| be changed every 2000 miles. If this seems a little | | | | chance of keeping you warm. |
| extreme just think about how much it will cost to | | | | Step 12 |
| replace your engine should you have a catastrophic | | | | Brake fluid |
| failure due to excessive engine wear! The actual oil | | | | Brake fluid should be checked and topped up |
| change interval is up to you, but I wouldn't recommend | | | | periodically. The brake fluid reservoir can be found |
| that you go more than 3000 miles. | | | | behind the front kick panel. |
| Step 2 | | | | Step 13 |
| Tire pressures | | | | Brake Pads |
| It is important to your tires are inflated to the right | | | | The brake pads can be checked very easily on a bus, |
| pressure. Your buses ride will be better and its road | | | | although you will need to remove the wheels. To do |
| handling will be much improved, which also means that | | | | this jack up the vehicle and remember to always use |
| it will be safer. Check your tire pressures at least | | | | axle stands. You will be able to see if your pads need |
| every two weeks and always before a long journey. | | | | replacing, they should be at least 7mm thick. |
| Make sure you know the correct tire pressures for | | | | Step 14 |
| your model of VW Bus. I will be adding standard tire | | | | Axle |
| pressures to Class Campers technical section soon | | | | The axle will need to be greased every 5-7000 miles. |
| but probably after the publish date of this article. | | | | There are multiple points that need greasing. These |
| Step 3 | | | | are the steering idler that is located in the middle of the |
| Windscreen Washer bottle | | | | axle and the four trailing arm bushes at the ends. So a |
| The most peculiar set up I have ever seen! The | | | | grease gun will be a great buy! |
| washer bottle on a VW Bus is located behind the front | | | | Step 15 |
| kick panel to the left of the steering column. The | | | | Front & Rear Drums |
| peculiar part of the set up is the fact that it needs | | | | The front and rear drums of your VW bus will require |
| compressed air to force the water from the bottle to | | | | adjusting at lease every 6000 miles. To do this, you |
| the windscreen. You can attach a normal air line at | | | | should insert a screwdriver in to the drum adjustment |
| your local garage and pressurize to 40psi. Warning, do | | | | whole under the hub cap of your bus. More to follow |
| not pressurize it and more than 40psi because you run | | | | Step 16 |
| the risk of blowing the pipes of the washer nozzles. It's | | | | Handbrake |
| a lot of work to put them back on! | | | | The handbrakes on VW buses are notoriously bad |
| Step 4 | | | | and often hardly work at all. This is usually because |
| Gearbox Oil | | | | they haven't been adjusted for years. This isn't a |
| Although the gear box should only be changed every | | | | difficult task - more |
| 30000 miles it may need topping up from time to time. | | | | Step 17 |
| The fill plug is located on the side of the gear box near | | | | Wheel Bearings |
| to the clutch cable. The official documentation | | | | Your wheel bearings will to be checked every 10000 |
| suggests you will need a 17mm Hex spanner, but | | | | miles or once a year which ever comes first. You |
| mines seems to be 18mm! Use Hypiod EP80/90 gear | | | | should re-grease them every 20-30000 miles or two - |
| oil and fill so the oil is level with the bottom of the hole. | | | | three years. To check them jack up your bus (don't |
| It is essential that locate your bus on a flat surface | | | | forget to use axle stands), and grasp the top and |
| when you perform this task. | | | | bottom of your wheel and push the top and pull the |
| Step 5 | | | | bottom of the wheel. If there is any play they will need |
| Spark plugs | | | | to be replaced. If there is any grinding when you spin |
| Cleaning your spark plugs should be undertaken every | | | | the wheel then it is likely that the bearing will need |
| 5000 miles or so. The electrode gap should be 0.7mm | | | | replacing. |
| or 0.028in. You can clean the electrode with a little | | | | Step 18 |
| piece of emery cloth or a fine wet and dry. Personally | | | | Clutch |
| I prefer to completely change my spark plugs every | | | | Your clutch should be checked for play periodically and |
| 10000 miles and check them every 5000 miles or so. | | | | should have around 20mm play at the foot peddle. |
| Step 6 | | | | You should also grease the clutch cable periodically to |
| Distributer Cap | | | | help its ability to work efficiently and to stop it breaking |
| When you replace or check your spark plugs it is | | | | because it gets stuck. |
| necessary to inspect the condition of the distributer | | | | Step 19 |
| electrodes because they can become corroded. If so | | | | I cant think of any more but if anyone has any other |
| they can be cleaned or replaced depending on the | | | | tips please let me know. |