The Rich Sounds of Oaxaca

Remember your auditory sense:lines...here in Oaxaca we have enough trouble getting
It is said that while in Oaxaca, if you don't look up whilethe government to just repair streets and sidewalks,
sightseeing, you'll miss a lot (i.e. centuries old detailedand make somewhat safer the tap water we receive
carvings, moldings and frescos, trees growingfrom the broken, antiquated and inefficient underground
perpendicular out of walls and elaborately landscapedwater delivery system---let alone embark upon
roof-tops). Similarly, if you don't keep your ear to thechanging the entire system of fuel delivery to
ground your stay in the city will not be as culturallysubsurface (although recently the downtown
complete and informative as it could be. What followssidewalks and streets were dug up to bury utility lines).
is a sampler of the range of sounds you might hearMuch more often than in earlier eras, residents are
from car-top loudspeakers, truck and scooter horns,opting for the use of larger stationary propane tanks
steam whistles, stereo systems and live bands, and anwhich are filled pursuant to a delivery schedule so that
explanation of what each signifies, as well as how tothese larger single receptacle propane trucks do not
tell them apart.notify households that they're out on the street.
It is not necessary to venture off into the pueblos toSimilarly, the large water trucks---which fill cisternas
experience the plethora of diverse and colorful sounds,and tinacos for household use apart from
which in and of themselves provide you with a greaterdrinking---need not signal their presence, since they
understanding of life in Oaxaca. Just head outside ofarrive by order only. But if you're downstairs when the
the Centro Histórico by taking a bus or taxi, orcow bell signals the arrival of the garbage truck, you've
simply going for a long walk, even a kilometer or twomissed it for another week, unless you track down the
beyond the Periférico and N. Heroes detruck with the week's refuse in back of your pickup,
Chapultepec. I am referring not to the continuous din ofeither that day, or another if you know the dates and
donkeys and dogs, toads, turkeys, roosters, and theroutes closeby.
more exotic birds and bovine, but rather to man-madeThere are also three types of informational
articulations. Such sounds advise the residents of theannouncements you may hear on a regular basis.
city of the proximity of vendors of a variety of goodsOnce again there are merchants, not peddling their
and services, regarding religious and secular events, orwares on the street, but rather notifying Oaxacans of
that a rite of passage of a neighbor is under way.bargains or sales by means of car-top speaker, for
Commercial vendors create most of the daily discordexample a supermarket chain promoting products, or a
on the streets, and inform us of what fruits arepizza franchise selling a large with two selections, plus
seasonally inexpensive, delicacies which tempt thetwo liters of soda for only 100 pesos. The second and
taste buds of locals, and how important it is forperhaps more vital type of information that is received
Oaxacans to have their fresh tortillas and other bakedby residents is public service in nature, consisting of
goods. The most unusual sound comes from a metallocal news events. Often when someone in a colonia
wagon wheeled along the streets, its operator sellingdies, a truck winds the neighborhood streets advising
hot fried plantain, with sweet cream and otherof not only the passing, but of pertinent details
condiments sprinkled atop upon asking...simply delicious,regarding mass, burial, and so on. When there are
and generally a "safe" food to eat on the street.public works to be completed that the municipio does
Usually during the evenings one can hear the pitch ofnot deem within its mandate to address in a timely
its steam whistle, starting off with a low tenor, andfashion, the president of the colonia may arrange for
reaching a high screech...can't be mistaken. At thethe work to be done by residents, for example clearing
other end of the spectrum are the tortilla vendors whobrush. The announcement traditionally includes where
often drive by the same neighborhood streets 2 - 3and when the project will be commenced, with a plea
times daily, usually in a VW Beetle, or on a scooter,to attend ready for work and to bring as many picks,
notifying residents of their presence by short beeps ofshovels, rakes and wheelbarrows as are available to
their horns. You might also hear the bread and pastryyou. When hearing this type of exhortation you know
truck trolling the streets, with loudspeaker atop, thethat there is a neighborhood organization in place that
driver busking the virtues of his bolillos and variety ofsees part of its duty to pick up where the "higher"
pan dulce. When he's not so extolling, he has musiclevels of government have left off, or is not prepared
blaring, the same songs day after day so neighborsto wait until government gets around to prioritizing what
can identify particular songs with baked goods for sale.the residents deem important.
The same pattern of dividing announcements betweenThe final type of information your auditory sense picks
the shouted word and recorded music is encounteredup on the streets emanates from celebrations,
with the fruit trucks, pickups sometimes selling simplyevidencing the richness and diversity of social life, and
oranges by the bagful of 25, 50 or 100, or insignifying the arrival of an important customary or
conjunction with other types of citrus, melons andreligious event. While often a part of the event may
piñas, by the piece or kilo, scales loaded in thetake place in a hall, church or salon, in this fiesta
back of the vehicle, young associate bagging, weighingoriented society celebrating includes at minimum a
and taking cash. When the voice goes hoarse, onportion of the festivities occurring on the streets or at
comes The Beatles, Revolver. We learn a little abouta home, or entirely in a local setting. At any time of day
culture and economics...the price of gas and laboror night it is not unusual to hear the blaring of a sound
relative to the sale of such perishables and requiredsystem or live band music echoing across a valley
profit margins; the importance for residents to havethrough neighborhoods. There may be a wedding of
fresh foodstuffs; lack of proximity to more traditional400 people, a 50th birthday celebration or a quince
retail outlets with such offerings; and finally, theaños (elaborate celebration when a girl turns 15,
availability of at least one person in the homesimilar to a Bat Mitzvah in the Jewish faith) well under
throughout the day to make such purchases. Think ofway. Depending on the makeup of the crowd, you
what percentage of your neighbors are homemay hear deafening rap, hip-hop or that otherwise
throughout the day to welcome such purveyors. Indeep base type of teenager-oriented music, or
Oaxaca, with its extended family tradition, andperhaps the more traditional cumbia tunes, or a
responsibility for making purchases entrusted to quitecombination of D.J. contemporary music in one set,
young children, it is feasible for such a method offollowed by live band Latin music in the next. The most
marketing to continue.modest $100 stereo system can be hooked up to an
Distinctly different sounds are made for announcingamp and monster speakers to create a deafening
the arrival of necessities. It is trite to note thediversion from otherwise relatively tranquil surroundings.
importance of drinking water. Several times a dayThe other type of music one often hears comes from
water trucks loaded with 19 liter blue plastic or clearmore informal bands winding their way through the
glass bottles patrol every street in every colonia,streets as a part of religious customs. Just look in any
although sometimes economics may dictate use of abook which enumerates the multitude of saints' days
large tricycle instead of the motorized vehicle. Theand other ritual dates, and you can pretty well assume
sound one hears is always the same, andthat you will hear band music swinging up and down
unmistakable.....agua (¡aah-gwaaah!). Almost asstreets, weakening as the procession winds further
frequently one can't help but miss the trucks sellingaway, and strengthening until it is upon you. Stop and
propane by the tank, usually in your choice of threeask what's going on. Have a drink if you're offered a
sizes...exchange your emptied for filled. No humansmall cup of mezcal, and eat up all that the festivities
voice used here, but rather one or more of perhapsare willing to offer. Follow your ears to the origin of the
three familiar signals...a deep fog horn type of sound,music, and peek in if you can, no matter how formal or
the racket of a chain dragging along the street, and/orinformal the setting may be...you just may be
the recorded sound of a mooing cow followed by awelcomed inside, and really have an experience to tell
jingle. Propane is residentially used primarily for stovesthe folks back home. If you simply "listen to the music"
and hot water tanks...no underground oil or natural gasyour Oaxacan experience will be that much richer.